Fear vs. Flow
“The secret to life is to have no fear!”
Out loud, I repeat that Fela Kuti incantation to myself every time I stand on the beach preparing to paddle out into the surf at La Pastora, a surf spot north of Todos Santos, Mexico. It's a point break with a rocky bottom, the swells are regularly 6-8 ft or more, so definitely not a beginner break. I’m trying to …
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